#Reikan focal using a brick wall software
I think a round bird needs a bit of back-focus added so that's what appeared to work better by adding on one extra point to what the software said. Seems even though they were all set per the software, adding one more point to all of the software's AF tuning numbers shifted the focus back a bit so more of the bird appeared in focus and sharper.
With all the software settings installed, I went to check them on the scrub jay bird at the feeder. Bloody timing consuming as it took about 22 hours to finish the testing on the two bodies with the 300mm and the 420mm tele-converted lens too. Count that as 4 tests.īad part was it took me 5.5 hours to do each one of the four! I used a 12 second self-timer for each trigger, and then did each AF square of shots in the software before moving onto the next AF square. However, the 300mm and the 420mm (300mm with the MC-14 1.4x tele-converter.) would need to be done on both the E-M1 mark II and the E-M1X. I did three shots of each of the five locations so it would average in the software. I only checked the -2, -1, 0, +1, and +2 tuning numbers in the body knowing they would be close (Unlike my Nikon which needed a -19, but it had severe back-focus issues even new.). Not having it written down I needed to recheck the 25 AF spots Olympus uses so this time I used the FocusTune software on each of the 25 AF tuning spots. Somehow the firmware updates deleted my 300mm and 420mm lens tuning data when I updated the 300mm lens. You might be able to figure it out looking at the file in a text reader and change it yourself. It's sort of long and don't know if I should post it here. Sometimes the little green focus square on playback on the LCD would be missing as well (Olympus really needs to add that green focus square to their Workspace software, imho.).įwiw, the cam.dat file's text in the FocusTune software needs to be altered for the E-M1X too so the software will read it. The E-M1 Mark II does not like my same triggering action used on the E-M1X and it will result in a soft image if I punch or stab it too quick. The E-M1X spoiled me as I could trigger the button faster. When I went back to re-check some lenses on the E-M1 Mark II, it gave me some bad tuning results and for several tests the AF Tuning point was not changing from zero. I had little issue with the E-M1X and AF tuning verses the E-M1 Mark II which gave me fits going back to it. Oddly, the E-M1X seems to be less prone to stabbing the shutter and registers the correct AF Tuning value as it is faster in operation than the E-M1 Mark II. Stabbing at the E-M1 Mark II shutter button is BAD! The release has to be pressed consistently, slowly, and fully or else it will not send the AF Tuning correction to the lens. If you stab it too quick, it does not accept your -20 number and stays at zero so you get a soft image. What happens with the E-M1 Mark II is that it has a very slow shutter button. Sometimes the software's "Focus Point" would say CF-L2 or some other nonsense too.
Sometimes it would report "Zero" in the software and not -20 or whatever I placed there. On my E-M1 Mark II, the FocusTune software was giving me some odd results when I would set the AF Tune to -20 to run a test. I'll add getting the FocusTune software along with the LensAlign MkII ruler helps to understand your fingering of the shutter release.
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